Tank humidity can be 70-90 with day temperatures in the 80's with 70's night temperatures. They require ample fluorescent
lighting and a basking area either with UVB lighting or a heating pad. The tank I have is so tall I'm using an under the tank
heater to keep the substrate warm with two fluorescent lights for plants and sunning.
Green Anole's as well as Brown are best suited to a tall tank. 2ft height by 1.1/2ft length, or 15 gal, would suit a maximum
A 20gal, 2ft height by 2ft length would suit a maximum of 5 and so on.
Anoles are territorial and should have only one male per tank for every 4ft of length. If you wanted to house two males together,
it would be possible with least likeliness of stress, fighting or one killing the other in a very big tank or 8ft length.
Females are tolerant of each other but not necessarily social as far as laying eggs together. They can be kept in pairs or
groups depending on the size of the tank.
While it is never recommended to mix different animals together, it is possible for anoles to share a tank with small frogs
such as hyla and poison dart, given the right conditions. Anoles require dryer areas than a dart frog and hatched froglets
would be at a potential risk of being eaten.
Green Anoles need plenty of areas for climbing and foilage, plenty of green and brown colors which they will change to. They
prefer to be green shades but they will turn shades of browns as well for camouflage against wood colors, cooling down and
if they're ill.
Brown anoles tend to like being on the flooring more than they do climbing but still require branches ect. to climb on.
Both anoles will lay their eggs in the substrate, beneath leaf litter and bark. Eggs or hatchlings should be removed as soon
as they are found to prevent them from being potentially eaten by adults, or loose feeder crickets could damage the eggs.
Hides should be provided as bark or cork against the wall. Tall, tube forming bromeliads are ideal as well.
They should be misted once to twice a day to be able to drink from the 'dew'. Even with a water bowl provided, they may not
know to drink from it without a little coaxing such as misting the water bowl area or using a drip.
Anoles eat a variety of insects, crickets are fine but should be given while they are 4th week or younger with very minimal
adult staged crickets as they are simply too big. They can still be eaten but it's quite a mouthful for a small lizard. Crickets
should be dusted with powdered reptile vits and calcium with D3 or gut-loaded with nutrient packed foods such as fish flakes.
A variety of feeders would be a way to give them some diversity of diet and perk their interests from worms, flies, crane
flies to moths, caterpillars and termites.
Anoles also occasionally like rich nectars which you could supply to their diet with a little experimentation on what they
would like for a snack such as banana's, mango's, passion fruit or even coconut water or honey. On a few occasions I put about
an eye drops worth of room temp honey on the wall of the tank and let it drip down as a single line. Coconut water ect. could
be done in the same manner or a piece of fruit left in the tank in a bowl for a short period as they don't actually eat it
but just lick off of it.
With the appropriate conditions and good diet, green and brown anoles can live from 4 to 7 years.